Finding Pawpaws in Paw Paw, Michigan

When the Lunar Octet, a latin/jazz band I've been in for 40 years, performed this past weekend in PawPaw, MI, a jazz naturalist like me was naturally curious about whether there are any pawpaws growing there. 

The town, named after the PawPaw River, which in turn was named by the indigenous people after the pawpaw trees that grew along it, has a population of about 3500.  Though the downtown preserves some historic feel, the town has not exactly embraced its namesake. Grapes ornament the town logo on the water tower and elsewhere, not pawpaws. 

Upon arrival, I asked my phone where I might find a pawpaw in Paw Paw, and was directed to the post office, where I navigated past redbuds and callery pears before finding this pawpaw tucked around the side. 

The tree had fruit, but none ripe as yet. I asked around, at the sandwich shop and down along the beautiful lake where we performed. Most people were unfamiliar with this native tree. The post office worker I ran into said he didn't know anything about pawpaw trees in PawPaw, except that he doesn't like the taste. 

The flavor of a pawpaw, a rich, creamy combination of mango, banana and pineapple is appealing to some but not everyone. Our host was more generous with her knowledge and assessment, mentioning a couple places the pawpaw grows in town, including at one of the schools.

The town of Pawpaw sprouted along the Territorial Road, one of the three main east-west routes of pioneer days. That history is documented next to the lake, but the native tree remains largely unknown and uncelebrated in a town that bears its name. 

My theory is that, since Asimina triloba primarily grows in floodplains, the pawpaw trees were lost when the river was dammed to make Maple Lake. Its fruit, with fragile skin and a taste less universally appreciated than other tropical-tasting fruits, resisted mass marketing. That, and the general drift away from plant knowledge, consigned the pawpaw to obscurity. 

Still, it remains a singular fruit, the only member of the tropical custard apple family, Annonaceae, to adapt to northern climates. And some of us still remember the song: "Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch"--a pawpaw patch that, in PawPaw, Michigan, became a lake with a lovely breeze to carry our music. 

Update: Turns out that, if you live in PawPaw Michigan, you'd have to drive to southern Indiana or Ohio to find a festival celebrating the pawpaw. PawPaw's festival celebrates grapes.